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Proud Members of: Professional Lawn Care Association of America
Lawn Care Association of Pennsylvania
Green Machine
Lawn Care
20 Harris Street
Kingston
Pennsylvania 18704
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Lawn diseases are a good indication that your landscape might be out
of balance
Sometimes bad things happen even to the healthiest lawns. Lawn Diseases
are one of those things. Diseases are enough to perplex all of us to no
end. Many lawn diseases are not easy to identify and to distinguish from
other problems such as pests or poor maintenance. Ask anyone who has encountered
lawn diseases and they will tell you how frustrating they can be. Much
like human diseases, lawn diseases can be difficult to properly diagnose
and even harder to treat correctly. Green Machine Lawn Technicians are
well trained at identifying and treating all types of lawn diseases.
Prevention
The best treatment is prevention. Avoid circumstances that are more
likely to allow diseases to infect lawns. Proper watering, mowing regularly
and at the correct height (don't mow too short). In some instances,
disease is spread by mowers that have recently cut infected lawns. If
you hire an outside maintenance service, discuss with them precautions
they take to avoid disease spread.
Thatch is also a breeding ground for many diseases. Aerate often if
necessary (2 times a year) to reduce thatch to less than 1/2".
Improve drainage if water regularly stands after a heavy rain. Be careful
of over-watering, or watering at the wrong time of day (see
watering info).
Ask a professional lawn care provider for specific treatments recommended
for your specific geographic area. (See
Selecting a Lawn Pro in your area)
Here is a list of common lawn diseases and what can be done to prevent
future infections.
Common
Lawn Diseases |
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| Snowmold |
Snowmold is most common
to Kentucky Bluegrass and Fescues in regions where snow falls
and sits on the lawn for extended periods of time. |
The best prevention for
snowmold is to aerate often. Improving water drainage, raking
leaves off lawn's surface. Put your lawn on a regular fertilization
schedule. |
| Brown Patch |
Brown Patch is most common
to Kentucky Bluegrass, and ryegrasses in regions with high humidity
and/or shade. Brown patch commonly starts as a small spot and
can quickly spread outwards in a circular or horseshoe pattern
up to a couple of feet wide. Often times, while expanding outwards,
the inside of the circle will recover, leaving the brown areas
resembling a smoke-ring. |
The best prevention for
brown patch is to have your lawn aerated regularly, reduce shade
to effected areas, and to put your lawn on a regular fertilization
schedule. |
| Dollar Spot |
Dollar spots are most
common to Kentucky Bluegrass in humid climates. They get their
name from their small silver dollar-like shape and usually look
brown or straw-colored in appearance. Dollar spots tend to thrive
during drought conditions with heavy dews and in those lawns
with low levels of nitrogen. |
The best prevention for
brown patch is to have your lawn aerated regularly, water well
in the morning hours, remove excess thatch, to put your lawn
on a regular fertilization schedule. |
| Fairy Rings |
Fairy Rings can grow in
most grasses, and are distinguishable by circular rings filled
with fast-growing, dark-green grass. Around the perimeter of
the ring, the grass will typically turn brown and often times
grow mushrooms. Fairy rings typically grow in soils that contain
wood debris and/or old decaying tree stumps. |
The best prevention for
fairy ring is to aerate the diseased area, water well in the
morning hours, remove excess thatch, to put your lawn on a regular
fertilization schedule |
| Rust |
Rust gets its name from
the orange, "rusty" appearance it gives leaf blades. Most commonly
effecting ryegrasses and Kentucky Bluegrass, rust tends to flourish
in conditions of: morning dew, shade, high soil compaction,
and low-fertility. The best way to check for rust problems is
by taking a white tissue or paper towel and rubbing a few grass
blades through it. If an orange color remains, then it's usually
rust. |
The best prevention for
rust is to have your lawn aerated regularly, water in the morning
hours, reduce shade to grass, mow more frequently and bag grass
clippings; and put your lawn on a regular fertilization schedule. |
| Grease Spot |
Grease Spot can effect
all grasses in humid climates and can be recognized by the slimy-brown
patches that often have a white, cotton-like fungus around it.
Grease Spot gets its name for the "greasy" appearance it makes
while matting together and can appear in streaks across the
lawn. |
The best prevention for
rust is to have your lawn aerated regularly, water in the morning
hours, reduce shade to grass, mow more frequently and bag grass
clippings; and put your lawn on a regular fertilization schedule |
| Red Thread |
Red Thread is most common
to Fescues, Ryegrasses, and Kentucky Bluegrasses during times
of moist and cool weather. Red Thread gets its name from the
pinkish-red threads that form around the leaf blades and bind
them together. Eventually, the affected grass will turn brown
and the red treads will be most visible when wet. |
The best prevention for
Red Thread is regular aeration and remove thatch. Mowing
to
proper levels, reduce shade on lawn, and put your lawn on a
regular fertilization schedule. Including potassium in the
fertilization
program may help mildly cases. |
| Powdery Mildew |
Grass looks as though
it is sprinkled with flour. Kentucky bluegrass and shade areas
are the most susceptible. Grass will wither and die. |
Water only in the morning;
reduce shade by pruning, aerate and check drainage in the area. |
| Pythium Blight |
Irregularly shaded spots
of wilted brown grass. Cobweb-like mass of fungus on moist nights
or mornings. Patches cluster to form streaks a foot or more
wide |
Do not over water and
don't mow when grass is wet. |
| Fusarium Blight |
Light green patches that
spread, turn reddish brown and then die. Caused by a soilborne
fungus, often in combination with other pathogenic fungi. Primarily
attacks Kentucky bluegrass.
Usually occurs in hot, dry weather. Begins
as a small spot, then grows until it kills the grass. |
May require a fungicide
application. Maintain a good watering schedule.
However, once symptoms are noticed, it's
usually too late to control the disease for the current season. |
| Leafspot-Melting Out |
Brown to purple lesions
(spots on blades. Irregular dying areas of grass lesions on
grass in margins of dead area. Caused by excess nitrogen fertility
and possibly excess thatch buildup. Usually affects cool-season
grasses. |
Aerate
and detach lawn. May require a contact fungicde when leaf spot
is first noticed. |
| Leaf Smut |
Usually occurs in cool weather
(50-60) and usually effects bluegrass, sometimes fine fescue and
perennial rye. Infected plants die when weather heats up. Excess
water and fertilization encourages growth. |
Difficult to control. Treat
with a systemic fungicide in October or early March. Water thoroughly
after application. |
| Summer Patch |
Very similar to Fusarium Blight.
Infection usually occurs in compacted soils, in late spring. Symptoms
then appear in hot summer months. |
Systemic fungicide to infected
areas. |

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